Cabernet from Washington, Malbec from California, What!?

Wine these days continues to evolve - with different regions trying their hand at different varietals and seeing what happens. At least in the New World. In Europe, it is still pretty strictly controlled which grapes can be grown where to ensure a region's quality and continuity remain in tact - a Burgundy will still be a Burgundy (made of Pinot Noir grapes if we're talking reds) a Chianti will still be a Chianti (made primarily of the Nebbiolo grape and blended with other locals varietals) and a Bordeaux will still be a Bordeaux (the 5 Nobles, Left Back primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and the Right Bank primarily Merlot). 

But in the New World, these requirements are far less strict. In the United States, for example, you can pretty much grow anything anywhere. The label requirements are for location rather than varietal - as long as there is 75% of one type of varietal in the bottle, it can be labeled as such. 

This is all to lead into the fact that in both established and emerging wine regions, interesting wines produced from varietals not typically associated with the region are producing some great results. 

Take, for example, Washington State. For a handful of years now, Washington State - and particularly the Walla Walla Valley - has been earning its reputation for quality wine on the backs of Merlot and Syrah. Both of which it makes very well. But Merlot and Syrah aren't the only grapes grown there, nor is the only good wine coming out of Walla Walla either Merlot or Syrah. 

Pepper Bridge Winery's 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is a great example. There is a lot of dark fruit, spice, wood and mocha to detect in this full-bodied Cab. Having never tried Washington State Cabernet before (preferring their Merlots) I was not only pleasantly surprised, but determined to write a blog post to spread the word about Washington State Cabernet. 

For what it's worth, the Pepper Bridge Cabernet is, in fact, a Bordeaux-style blend comprised of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. The blending adds structure and balance to this wine, but make no mistake about it - this is a big, bold Cabernet through and through. It can easily hold its own against the Cabs coming out of Rutherford (though would be a little too fruit-forward to be confused for an Old World wine). 

This is also a wine the opens up, changes in complexity and flavors over time, so you would be wise to try a glass upon opening and then let the second glad sit for a while either in your glass or a decanter and notice how it changes.  

Pepper Bridge's 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon was a Great Introduction to Washington State Cabs

Speaking of Rutherford - and Napa Valley more generally - has the opposite problem. The region is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon. So much so that planting much of anything else is almost economically unfeasible nowadays. 

But Napa Valley does produce other really, really good wines. Take, for example, the Hess Collection's Small Block Series 2010 Malbec from the Mt. Veeder sub-appellation. Given that Napa Valley is known for its Cabernet, and Argentina has pretty much cornered the Malbec market, it is interesting to try a Napa Valley Malbec with the expectations of Napa Cabernet and Argentine Malbec floating around my head. 

Needless to say, this wine is unique based on past experiences from Napa and Argentina. It is well structured, with ample dry-fruit and a big, long spicy finish. It is not a fruit-forward as a Argentine Malbec and is not as big and bold as a Napa Cab. What it is is earthy, spicy and smooth. A great robust steak wine that has enough earth on it to keep it interesting.   

You know the Hess Chardonnay with the Green Label and the Hess Cabernet in the Red Label You can get at the Supermarket? This is way, way better.

What both of these wines demonstrate is that no matter how well-established a region is, trying new varietals can lead to some great results. As wine regions around the world continue to grow and develop, continuing to keep an open mind and letting winemakers experiment will likely yield some very tasty and unique results. 

A New Voice for Wine Lovers

For those of us who live in the DC area, we all know the maddening patchwork of different liquor laws that exist in Maryland, DC and Virginia. Anyone who has stopped off at a grocery store before crossing the Bay Bridge, for example, knows that if you want a bottle of wine with your fruits and veggies, you have to make two stops because in Maryland, you still can't buy wine in a grocery store.  

Travel further north to Pennsylvania and you are still pretty much in the era of Prohibition - except that the colorful gangsters have been replaced with mid-level bureaucratic functionaries who have the final word in what wines can be sold in their state in their state-controlled liquor stores. And to make matters that much more confusing, beer is sold under totally different rules. You see, in Pennsylvania, a state-run tribunal knows what choices consumers should and can make far better than the consumers do themselves.

Each state, county and even city can come up with their own alcohol laws, which is fine in practice, but it is usually the consumers who lose in the end. 

Enter the American Wine Consumer Coalition, a new advocacy group that wants to give wine lovers a voice in ongoing policy debates on the state and federal levels. Or, to parrot that AWCC's website:

For too long wine consumers have been ignored as special interests fashion wine laws and regulations that dismiss the needs and desires of the consumer. By joining AWCC you raise a glass and raise your voice for the rights of wine lovers.

The AWCC aims to give wine lovers and wine consumers a seat at the table when laws that restrict, limit, or prevent a free market to flourish when it comes to wine. In Virginia, Governor Bob McDonnell has been a huge champion of expanding access to wine - with good reason. The more open the Virginia's wine market is, the more likely it is that Virginia's wine industry will flourish. True, there are still some confusing rules that wineries must follow to stay within the three-tiered system, but slow, steady progress is better than no progress at all. 

In other states without a burgeoning wine industry, the status quo prevails, limiting choice and access in a myriad of different ways. Luckily, the AWCC is working to help ensure that a free wine market becomes the norm across the country. 

If you want to see how your state stacks up, you can check out their state-by-state interactive map here.

While the AWCC is a new organization - only launched in the last month - it is growing, and with the more members it gains, the louder the voice of the American wine consumer becomes. The cost of membership is only $35, but every member makes the interests of American wine lovers that much louder. 

Hopefully you will consider joining today. 

What to Drink when it's This Hot and This Humid

Washington, DC has a unique characteristic during the summer. When it rains in the summer, it doesn't cool things off but rather adds to the swelter. 

As Kermit the Frog - or anyone within the Beltway can tell you - drinking heavy reds in the humidity of a swamp in the summer is not always the most pleasant. So what is the wino to do during the summer months?

First, anyone who "only drinks reds" needs to shut up. Obviously, everyone has their preferences, but to shut out three quarters of wine available is just absurd. Be open-minded to whites,  rosés and sparkling wine. When it's 95 degrees out with 80 percent humidity, do you really want to pour that thick, jammy Zinfandel? Try some wines you wouldn't other. Not only will you likely be surprised, but they will actually be refreshing and enjoyable.

Second, be willing to try pink wine. White Zinfandel has done more to destroy the otherwise good name of rosé than we may ever know, but those willing to try these oft-maligned wines will be not only surprised, but become fans. Every year I feel like Sam-I-Am on this topic and every year, there are a couple of converts who admit that rosés are much better than they thought. For those skeptical about trying rosé, Rosé d'Anjou is a great place to start. Made predominantly from Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, these light, crisp and dry rosés are perfect for everything from a BBQ to a day at the park. And at $8.00 - $12.00 for a decent bottle, they are French, pink wines that won't break the bank.

When it comes to whites, Sauvignon Blancs are the perfect for the summer. Even though New Zealand has put these wines back on the map, I prefer the ones coming out of Chile, Bordeaux, the Loire and the domestic ones. These all tend to be less intense with respect to the gooseberry and citrus flavors that the New Zealand ones have, yet still have the balance and crispness that make these wines so perfect for the summer.

Finally, there are sparkling wines. Not all sparkling wine needs to be champagne, nor does sparkling wine need to be for a special occasions only. Spanish Cava is great this time of year. Not only are they crisp, complex and refreshing, but they work in any budget and are versatile enough to go with just about anything.

Any of these options work extremely well during the summer months - and with Virginia Viognier still coming into its own, and more producers making dry rosés - there are plenty of local options for grat wine to drunk during the summer as well.

East Coast/West Coast Pinot

I don't want to make this post too much of a Biggie/Tupac battle, but there does seem to be a bit of a feud brewing between Pinot Noirs from the West Coast and Pinot Noir from the East Coast, though it must be mentioned that the latter is still in its infancy. Be that as it may, some have taken to growing Pinot east of the Oregon/California boarder.

Specifically, Heart and Hands Winery in the Finger Lakes region of New York is committed full boar to producing world-renowned Pinot Noir - despite the numerous obstacles to producing wine from a fickle, thin-skinned grape in a region where there can still be snow on the ground in May. Still, Heart and Hands' owners Tom and Susan Higgins have had a good deal of success committed themselves fully to Pinot Noir, and some wine critics have started to take note. 

While Tom has spent some time in Burgundy, he is reticent to call his Pinots "Burgundian." Instead, the Pinor Noir Heart and Hands produces is truly unique to the Finger Lakes - light-to-medium in body but full of complexity with notes of cloves, spice, raspberries and liquorice that develop over time. 

While Heart and Hands is practically alone at waving the East Coast Pinot Noir flag, people are starting to take notice - and with good reason. I particularly like Heart and Hand's approach of letting their wine stand on their own merits without having to do superficial geographic comparisons.

On the other side of the country, Oregon continues to rack up accolades for its Pinot Noir - and now produces some of the best Pinot Noirs in the world. Certainly some of the best outside of Burgundy. 

Oregon has built its reputation on Pinot Noir, and doesn't appear to be slowing down any time soon. They know they have a good thing going with velvety and earthy Pinots, though they do tend to stress that their Pinots are "Burgundian" a bit more than they should. Let your own wines stand on their own two feet and let wine drinkers decide what they are or are not like.

One producer that seems to be bucking this trend is Willamette Valley Vineyards. Several of their wines recently received 90+ point ratings from some of the major wine magazines. As versatile, complex and full as these Pinots are, they also are wines that benefit from some time in a decanter or being aged for a couple of years. 

Make no mistake about it. Quality Pinot Noir is now being produced in Burgundy, Oregon and some of the cooler areas of California. However, producers in New York and New Zealand are working hard to make sure that the map of quality Pinot Noir slowly shifts to newer regions. 

Bacchus Bookclub

Anyone who has ever stopped into a Virginia winery likely knows about a certain famous Virginian's near obsession with wine. While most know Thomas Jefferson as the author of the Declaration of Independence whose monument has a primo view of the cherry blossoms, wine lovers remember him as one of their own. 

From his own Quixotic attempt to grow wines that would rival those of Bordeaux in his native Virginia to his passion for sharing and drinking those same French wines, Thomas Jefferson was a passionate wine drinker. 

When a bottle of Chateau Lafite that supposedly belonged to Jefferson came up for auction, it became the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold. From there, the story told in The Billionaire's Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace unfolds - opening up a world of wine writers, critics, auctioneers, winery owners, con men and James Bond super-villain style wealthy eccentrics who buy, sell and drink rare wines with other wine writers, critics, auctioneers, winery owners, con men and James Bond super-villain style wealthy eccentrics. 

The book tells the story of this world in a gripping and captivating way, all the while offering more clues for the reader as to whether or not the bottle of Jefferson's authentic or not. I don't want to give too much away, because I urge you to read the book. Failing that, I urge you to see the movie starring Brad Pitt once it is released.  

Through it all, the reader learns more about this small universe of highly-exclusive, super rare wine world where reputations are made and destroyed on the ability to provide the rarest wine possible, regardless of what it tastes like. The story weaves in Jefferson's own love of wine - all the while giving readers a glimpse into the types of people who would pay $156,450 for a bottle of wine and how, after paying that much, would have a vested interest in assuring that the bottle was authentic. 

As a wine lover, I enjoyed reading the book as much for the supporting role Jefferson plays in the narrative as well as how the case of the Jefferson wines twists and turns. I was also saddened by the type of one-upmanship that the highly-exclusive wine drinkers demonstrated. For me, looking for the oldest and rarest wine would take away from the enjoyment of actually drinking the wine. 

With spring and summer upon us, The Billionaire's Vinegar is a great book to read along with a glass of wine, giving a hat tip to Thomas Jefferson and letting the uber-wealthy enjoy wine that is overpriced and way past its prime. 

Of WIne and Baseball

The baseball season is finally upon us meaning that spring has arrived - even with the DC area forecasting mornings in the 20s and 30s - and I can shift from trying to convince people that drinking wine is appropriate while watching football to trying to convince people that drinking wine is appropriate while watching baseball. As a chronic Cubs fan, anything other than Anheuser Busch products is actually acceptable during baseball games, but I digress. 

In looking towards this season - another long slog for the Cubs and one of exceedingly high expectations for my adopted team, the Nats - I got to thinking that the wine industry in Virginia is much like baseball in general and the Cubs in particular. 

Stay with me now...

Generally, baseball, like winemaking, has certain benchmarks throughout the year. With the former, there is the winter hot stove trades, pitchers and catchers reporting to Spring Training, the start of Spring Training games where the quality of the team is assessed and then, ultimately, Opening Day when all of the past months' hard work, determination and prognostications have to start playing out for a demanding audience. 

With winemaking, there is bud-break leading to the development of the grapes leading to harvest leading to crush leading to the wine actually being made and then, ultimately, to the wine being released hen all of the past months' hard work, determination and prognostications have to start playing out for a demanding audience. 

The Virginia wine industry is much more like the Cubs in particular. Both had brushes of success early on before a rapid descent into a long-lasting spiral of failure, frustration and futility despite the talent surrounding both. In the Cubs' case, how can you not win a World Series with Greg Maddox, Andre Dawson, Ryne Sandberg and Mark Grace in 1989 or with Ernie Banks, Billy Williams, Ron Santo and Fergie Jenkins in 1969? For Virginia wine, how could it not be a success when you have Thomas Jefferson - the polymath Renaissance Man who wrote the Declaration of Independence - as your champion? 

In both instances, the obstacles for success were too great, even for the talent and effort both the Cubs and Virginia wine put forth throughout the centuries. 

With a new season under way, the Cubs, as well as a team made up of Virginia winemakers, stand about the same chance of winning the World Series this year. That said, the great thing about baseball, and wine, is that there is always that hope for a better year, a better outcome and continued success. 

For the Cubs, that is still a few years off. For Virginia wine, all those years and centuries of Thomas Jefferson and his supporters imploring people to "wait 'till next year" have started to pay off in Virginia - and the wine press, wine-drinking public and the industry as a whole are all starting to take notice. 

For the Cubs, there's still always next year, though I will celebrate their perfect 1-0 record while it lasts. 

Play ball!

Spring Wines

If anyone's getting sick of hearing me sing the praises of Virginia Cabernet Franc or Chilean Merlot here, fear not! With spring officially settling into the DC area - and the weather not that far behind - the bigger reds will stay on the rack in the coming months as the lighter reds, whites and roses start to feature more prominently into regular rotation.

For reds, that means this in Pinot Noir's seasonal heyday. Lighter-bodied, with loads of fruit and - with the best from Burgundy and Oregon - spice, earth and complexity that proves that a wine doesn't need to be a big, heavy wine to have a lot going on in terms of what you can taste and discover.

That last sentence was veering extremely close to wine blogger snobbery and pretentiousness, so I apologize and will strive to do better when discussing the whites - especially because there are so many that are approachable, interesting and affordable.

While the Virginia Cabernet Francs and Petite Verdots are being put away for the warmer months, Virginia is no slouch in the white category either. Viognier, in particular, is a great choice, and one that I anticipate enjoying quite a bit of during the spring and summer. Pear, apricot and a little honeysuckle give these wines a lot of fruit while balancing it out with slate on the finish gives Virginia Viognier is why these wines continue to grow in popularity. According to Jordan Harris of Tarara, who makes a great Viognier in his own right, these wines don't show well during wine competitions, but that should take absolutely nothing away from what these wines can offer.

When it comes to pink wine, Rose d'Anjou is a solid go-to. Made predominantly or entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes and coming out of The Loire Valley, these wines - with their abundance of strawberries and raspberries, well-balanced structure and dry, refreshing finish - these wines are great any time during the warmer months and are version utile enough to pair with anything from barbecue ribs to charcuterie.

If you need good come backs when people make fun of you for drinking pink wine with your ribs, check back. That may well be a future post.

Finally, one should not ignore sparkling wines. Cavas from Spain are great, inexpensive sparkling wines that can be opened any time and enjoyed by a diverse crowd. Once you get out of the CVS brands of cava, there are some great options for under $10 maki them some of the best values in the wine world these days.

Whatever you choose to drink during the warmer months, enjoy it, and if you so dare, try to be a wine evangelist for all the beer drinkers.