DC International Wine and Food Festival Emphasized Emerging Regions

The DC International Wine and Food Festival lived up to its name. There were wineries from all over the world – not just California, France and Italy. In fact, the representation of those three wine powerhouses was pretty scarce. Perhaps a better name for the Festival would have been the “DC Emerging Wine Regions Festival.” The large contingent of wine from New World regions such as South Africa, New Zealand, Spain and the Finger Lakes far surpassed the representation from more well-known wine-producing areas.

Even Virginia had a pretty good showing with about half a dozen wineries on-site. The Washington Wine Academy was also on-hand pouring local wine – and had good crowds throughout the day. I was impressed that there was such a big showing by Virginia wineries, given that the DC festival was held on the same weekend as the Virginia Wine Showcase.

There was a large turnout, making it difficult to get samples and tastings from some vendors, but that isn’t unusual. Regardless, there was enough to do and see that it was not a major issue except with a few vendors. And seriously, if you are giving out samples of foie gras, there is going to be a wait. Like most festivals of its ilk, there were cooking demonstrations with celebrity chefs, food and wine vendors and myriad other businesses attracted by the demographics of the attendees.

South Africa had the largest presence of any wine region that I saw, with Spain being a close second. I am glad they did, as I am not all that familiar with South African wines and was glad to have the opportunity to try a number of styles of South African wine. Aside from more traditional varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa offered attendees samples of alternative varietals that they do very well: Pinotage (red) and Chenin Blanc (white). I tried both, which were both quite good. The Pinotage had a deep red color with a light-to-medium body and a lot of smoke, oak and blackberries on the nose and finish. The Chenin Blanc had a lot of vanilla and banana throughout.

Spain also had a big presence, too, but there was too much of a cluster for me to spend too much time tasting their wines.

The Finger Lakes also had a large turnout. From the wines on hand, as well as the marketing material about the region, it’s easy to figure out what the Finger Lakes does well: Riesling. Every winery was pouring at least two different styles of Riesling, and the literature quoted the rave reviews that Finger Lakes Riesling has received. Riesling is being embraced as the grape of the region. Sweet, dry, and semi-dry styles were all well-represented at the festival. Many of them were done very well. If you’re not a fan of Riesling, there were several Finger Lakes Pinot Noirs and Gewürztraminers available too - but they were supporting characters to Riesling. Chambourcin also has a lot of potential in the Finger Lakes. I have tried several very good ones, and have been impressed with the versatility and complexity of Finger Lakes Chambourcin.

There was, in fact, so much talk and literature about Finger Lakes Riesling that the region could run the risk of becoming a one-trick pony. The region should embrace what it does well, but it does wines other than Riesling well, too. I wrote about some producers making fantastic reds a while back, but the marketing collateral that the region is using so emphasized Riesling that it might make it difficult for other wines to get the respect and attention that they deserve. Still, Oregon's wine industry certainly hasn't suffered from emphasizing its Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

It is interesting to contrast the strategy of the Finger Lakes to that of Virginia. They are both emerging wine regions that are gaining more and more recognition within the industry. But where the Finger Lakes is leaning on one grape varietal hard, the Virginia wine industry emphasizes its history, diversity and innovation. Even though Cabernet Franc and Viognier grow well in Virginia, neither varietal has been highlighted to the extent that Riesling has been by the Finger Lakes industry. It will be interesting to see which strategy is more successful in the long run. I hope that both regions continue to develop and produce great wine that is reflective of their respective climate and geography.

Freedom, Democracy and Wine. Thomas Jefferson would be Proud

With the Virginia Wine Showcase having come and gone and the Virginia Wine Expo fast approaching, what better time is there to take stock of where the Virginia wine industry is and where it is headed? My own humble answer is “none.” On display at the Showcase, along with wines from close to 40 Virginia wineries, was an unwavering confidence about the health and the direction of the industry. Not that there aren’t problems that need to be addressed. The fact that Virginia cannot ship its wine to nearby Maryland and Pennsylvania is criminal - and a constant concern to many people in the industry. But given the quality of wine, the growing reputation of the state, and the increasing number of wine producers, the overwhelming feeling is that the Virginia wine industry is on the cusp of gaining the reputation so many within the business feels it deserves. The wine is where it needs to be, it is now a matter of developing better reputation.

I was shocked by how often I heard this sentiment - it was practically universal. Admittingly, most people working for Virginia wineries - i.e. those who were pouring and selling wine at the Virginia Wine Showcase – have a somewhat biased and rosy view of where the industry is headed. Still, I got the same sense of enthusiasm from attendees, volunteers and other vendors. Though I tend to pooh-pooh those who set up shop to sell gutter cleaning services, paintings of cats made out of seashells, window installers, and knife companies at wine events, they do offer a perspective that is different than the wineries and attendees that attend. They too seemed excited about Virginia wine and the industry as a whole.

From the wine I was able to sample, Virginia wine is also diversifying. Wineries are making wine from well-known and less well-known varietals, in sweet, dry and semi-sweet styles. There are reds, whites, rosés and even fruit-flavored wines. The different styles all speak to the level of talent and commitment people have to making Virginia wine some of the best in the country. It is also, many winemakers told me, one of the great advantages of Virginia’s wine industry – there is more freedom to experiment with different styles of wines, different grape varietals and different blends. This is all resulting in an increasingly complex, interesting and enjoyable portfolio of wines coming out of the state.

I got to try some of my old favorites as well as some new ones at the Showcase. The standout of the new ones I tried was Hume Vineyards. Hume’s mission is to create Old World-style wines from grape varietals that grow well in Virginia. One of my favorites was their Chambourcin. While it is not a traditional Bordeaux varietal, Hume makes one that is deep red, fruity, spicy and medium-to-full bodied. It is an elegant wine and shows the potential that Chambourcin has in the state. As a native of the Loire Valley, Stephane – Hume’s owner and winemaker – told me that they are going to unveil a dry rosé wine this spring, which I am also very eager to try.

Virginia is attracting new wineries because it’s hit a sweet spot where winemakers and prospective winery owners have heard about Virginia wines, have been impressed by what they have tried, and see tremendous promise in what they can accomplish by opening their doors in the state. And while the market does drive some decisions – both Chardonnay and Merlot are musts – there is more freedom to experiment. Chambourcin is a great example, and Hume shows that it is paying off extremely well. With so much potential in the state, a friendly climate for new wineries to open, and a growing reputation, winemakers have the ability to make the kinds of wines they want to, find out what grows really well in Virginia - Cabernet Franc and Viognier are the early leaders - and grow their businesses along with the industry as a whole.

Stephane chose to open his winery in Virginia rather to return to France because he saw “tremendous promise” in Virginia and did not want to be as restricted as he would have been in France. His story is not unique. Many people I spoke with chose Virginia because of its promise and freedom to experiment. We are lucky that Hume’s owner made that choice. It would’ve been a real shame if he opened his winery in France where he would be unable to make his impressive Chambourcin.

Little Cabin in the Woods. Serving Sweet Wines

Virginia's wine industry is still young and growing. It has not had much opportunity for family-owned wineries to pass from one generation to the next like in some more well-established wine-producing regions. I have heard some winery owners say that their children have an interest in the business. Others have told me that their son or daughter is going to college so that they may take over the winery one day. Yet with the reborn Virginia wine industry still in its first generation, there hasn’t been much of a chance for wineries to be bequeathed from parents to children.

Hidden Brook is not a generational winery, either, but it is pretty close. Owned by a husband and wife team, the couple bought land adjacent to the husband’s parents. The parents own Lost Creek Vineyards and the two properties are separated by rows of vines each uses to make their own wine. If nothing else, Hidden Brook’s story shows that Virginia winemaking is taking root and influencing others’ decision to have a go of making wine in the state. I like the story, and I was eager to visit the winery and try the wines.

Apparently I was the only one. When Caitlin and I visited Hidden Brook we were literally their only customers, which is too bad because the winery itself is a pleasant setting: a log cabin on a wooded lot with a big fireplace. Not a bad place to spend a winter afternoon. Since we were the only people there, we had the attention of one of the owners all to ourselves. She told us a little more about the brief history of the winery, and walked us through a tasting.

The wines all tended to be a bit sweet for my taste. The owner mentioned on several occasions that they make their wines in a sweeter style because that is what their customers want. I wasn’t entirely sure if she was being defensive or apologetic about Hidden Brook’s wines, but she seemed to be of the opinion that Hidden Brook’s wines were not living up to their potential, and I would have to agree. While it never makes sense to alienate your most loyal customers, it also doesn’t make sense to make wines in a style that you don’t personally like. What’s the point of putting that much time, effort, energy, money and toil into something that you will think is, at best, decent?

Still, of the wines that we tried, Hidden Brook’s Chambourcin was the standout. The Chambourcin had a lighter body than many I have tried, but it had a nice flavor profile that combined vanilla, tobacco and raspberries with spice, pine and cloves. The owner, by way of explanation, told us that it was a very young wine and could stand to be aged a bit longer. I could see how a few more years would allow the wine to grow and develop, and, as such, Caitlin and I walked away with a bottle. I am interested to revisit the wine in a couple of years and see if it actually has matured the way I think it will.

While not a great wine, Hidden Brook’s Chambourcin was the best of the ones that we tried. It was by far the least sweet and I can see some potential in it. With a great story, great setting and friendly owners, the only thing missing from Hidden Brook is better wines. And more customers.

Doug Fabbioli: Virginia's Red WIne Evangelist

In a recent post, I wrote that one of my favorite reds from Virginia is Fabbioli Cellars’ Cabernet Franc. It is a great, complex and elegant red. In fact, it shows that it is possible to create high quality reds in Virginia. Similar to reds from the Finger Lakes, climate and general reputation are seen as major barriers to producing quality reds in Virginia. Like so much conventional wisdom, it takes a very small number of people to prove it wonderfully, wonderfully wrong.

Doug Fabbioli opened the doors to his winery about four years ago with the mission to produce very good, high quality red wines in Virginia. His small, family-run winery is producing some very good wine, and raising the profile of Virginia reds along with it. Fabbioli Cellars’ Cabernet Franc is among my favorites.

Fabbioli wines can now be found on many wine lists in the DC area, and can, quite frankly, hold their own among the other selections without being the sympathy selection that helps the restaurant look like it is helping the local economy with token local additions.

The Cabernet Franc is not as full-bodied as a Cabernet Sauvignon, yet it has just as much complexity. Berries, tobacco and chocolate are the dominant flavors of this dark ruby red wine that is very nicely balanced with a smooth finish with a bit of spice on it.

Another wine that is worth trying is Fabbioli Cellar’s Chambourcin. While a less well-known varietal, Chambourcin does well in Virginia. A nice, easy-drinking light to medium-bodied red, Fabbioli Cellars’ Chambourcin has hints of exotic spice, oak and earth in it.

As someone who has been in the wine business for so long, and has experienced the industry from so many diverse vantage points, it is a testament to Virginia’s wine potential that Doug has settled here, opened his winery here, and is committed to improving the quality of red wine that the state is capable of producing. Fabbioli Cellars itself has a laid-back, family atmosphere. Stop in one weekend and try some of the best reds that Virginia is producing.

An Unbiased Look at Finger Lakes Reds

To recap what I have said in the past about wine from the Finger Lakes: they make some fantastic Rieslings, a few other notable whites, and their reds tend to be on the light, watery and not terribly interesting side. It really wasn’t all that long ago when the difference between a New York white and a New York red may just as well have been a few drops of food coloring. There is a good reason why most people—myself included—are skeptical of reds from the Finger Lakes, namely that for a long time, they haven’t been very good.

As the region’s wine industry continues to evolve, some of the reds produced in the Finger Lakes are starting to hold their own. Heart and Hands Winery, for example, is focused on producing a high-quality pinot noir. They produce two types of non-sparkling wines: Riesling and pinot noir. Pinot is, if not an obsession, certainly, an area of intense focus for this small winery. Their obsession is starting to pay off in the form of a medium-bodied, silky pinot that has both fruity and spicy notes with a great, satisfying finish. As a young winery that is taking an extremely focused approach, Heart and Hands sets a good example for what Finger Lakes reds can be.

Anyela’s Winery is also doing their part for the red wine cause. Like Heart and Hands, Anyela’s is relatively new. And like Heart and Hands, Anyela’s makes very good reds for the region. Heart and Hands has very much of a “work-in-progress” feel to it—from its grounds that under construction to its pinot noir obsession which is nowhere near exhausted. Anyela’s demonstrates what is possible when good wines and beautiful, natural settings come together. No wonder why Caitlin and I held our rehearsal dinner here.

Perched atop Skaneateles Lake, the inside of the winery looks like a grown-up’s clubhouse with big, comfortable chairs, a central fireplace, wine barrel tables and natural wood walls. Panoramic views of the vines and the lake are available from just about everywhere. To top it off, their wine’s good, too. Taking a page out of Heart and Hands’ playbook, Anyela’s produces a pinot noir—and a very good one at that. There is an initial sweet and mellow aroma and fruit-forward taste of raspberry that evolves into a pleasant smoothness and finally finishes with hints of figs and exotic spices.

Another red that Anyela’s offers is their very approachable and drinkable Overlay blend. Comprised of 35% Cabernet Franc, 15% Pinot Noir, 20% Shiraz, and 30% Merlot; this thick, jammy, velvety red could, in a blind test, have people convinced they were drinking something from Napa Valley. I lost track of how many people complimented us on the wine served during our rehearsal dinner, and how impressed they were that it was local.

I would be remiss if I didn’t also mention Goose Watch Winery. They have been around for longer than either Heart and Hands or Anyela’s, but are also contributing to the Finger Lakes red march towards respectability. We served their chambourcin at our wedding. The deep, ruby red color and thick, well-rounded aromas of dark fruit and hints of leather, cherries and oak went perfectly with the steak that was served.

Heart and Hands, Aneyla’s and Goose Watch all serve as the exception, and a good example, for the caliber of reds that the Finger Lakes region can produce. With the influx of new wineries opening up in the area, let’s hope at least some of them put the same amount of care and effort into producing interesting, well-made reds.

Notaviva – Music to Virginia Wine

We recently visited Notaviva Vineyards. This is one of those wineries that, for me, is more about atmosphere and ambiance than it is about the wines. If you are in the mood to spend some time listening to good music in beautiful surroundings drinking wine, this is as good a place as any. Notaviva prides itself on its ability to pair wines with music, and the live music that they have on weekends does a nice job of creating the right atmosphere. I like their dedication to adding an aural element to wine. Wine is such a sensual experience – from looking at the glass to smelling it to get a sense of what lays ahead to tasting it to savoring it, wine rewards those who use their senses. Notaviva adds music to this dynamic. I am glad that they have done so. Their staff is extremely friendly and helpful, which also helps with the overall experience. Music, wine and a friendly staff make Notaviva a great place to spend

an afternoon.

As for their wines, the best of their offerings is their 2008 Vincero Viognier. Not to sound too much like a broken record on this blog, but Viognier really likes growing in Virginia, and Virginia wineries can do amazing things with this grape. Notaviva’s Viognier is aged in stainless steel casks, which gives it a light, crisp flavor that accentuates this wine’s mellow pear and kiwi undertones. Try it with grilled shrimp seasoned with Old Bay, or even sautéed rockfish cooked in sage butter. The texture and flavor of either dish will go well with this Viognier’s mellow, sweet flavor.

Notaviva’s 2008 "Celtico" Chambourcin is an interesting, if not entirely impressive red. It has plenty of tannins, with a smokiness that makes this wine a good fit for foods cooked on a grill – from burgers to steak. Basically, this is a red that should go with meat. Grilled meat. Preferably with a spicy dry rub or sauce. Open up a bottle with dinner and finish it off with some dark chocolate for dessert and you will have a well-paired meal. I say it is slightly unimpressive, though, for the fact that for as much smokiness and tannins as it has, that is basically it. There are some whiffs of raspberries, but not many. And with a smokiness that permeates everything from first smell to last sip, there doesn’t seem to be much room for any other flavors to distinguish themselves.

What Notaviva tries to do, and does well, is add a musical dimension to wine. From the names of their wines, to the diverse varieties of music played in their tasting room, to the owner’s own musical backgrounds and the musical paraphernalia that adorns the walls of their winery, it is obvious that Notaviva was opened so that the owners could pursue their two passions: music and wine. They have created a great atmosphere and make some decent wines in the process.