Virginia’s Wine Industry Brain Trust

Next month, Doug Fabbioli will again teach a series of courses on the wine business - running the gamut from general winemaking concepts and vineyard management to tips on starting a winery in Virginia. I was able to attend a few of the sessions and each of them was enlightening, educational and a lot of fun. Doug’s passion for wine certainly came through in the classes and his breadth of knowledge makes him a great instructor to boot.

I would highly recommend anyone that is interested in learning more about the wine business in general or the Virginia-specific wine industry to attend the classes when they start back up again on May 18. It is clear that Doug, as well as others in the industry in the state, love what they do and where they are doing it. The classes also make it very apparent that anyone who wants to get into the wine industry because of a Peter Mayle-ish romantic notion that all it takes is wandering among vineyards and tasting wine to own a winery is sorely mistaken. There is a lot of hard work, stress, and factors – both natural and manmade – that can destroy an entire year’s worth of work.

That reality check is important to get, especially for anyone who seriously considering jumping into Virginia’s wine industry. The classes will give you a much-needed primer on how to go about doing starting a winery if the warnings of hard work and toil don’t dissuade you.

Of the three classes I attended, my favorite had to be the last class, which included a panel discussion with Doug, Stephen Mackey from Notaviva Vineyards and Jordan Harris from Tarara Winery. The three of them are a combined wealth of information about the wine industry and it was fascinating to hear them talk about their approach to winemaking, how that approach had to be modified to Virginia’s climate and where they see the state’s wine industry going.

The general consensus is that Virginia is on path more akin to Oregon than Australia: becoming well-known for making high-quality wines rather than inexpensive and mass-produced wines. It certainly seems like the state is on that path, and these classes demonstrate that there is both the interest and the need to bring more people into a demanding, but highly rewarding industry.

DC International Wine and Food Festival Emphasized Emerging Regions

The DC International Wine and Food Festival lived up to its name. There were wineries from all over the world – not just California, France and Italy. In fact, the representation of those three wine powerhouses was pretty scarce. Perhaps a better name for the Festival would have been the “DC Emerging Wine Regions Festival.” The large contingent of wine from New World regions such as South Africa, New Zealand, Spain and the Finger Lakes far surpassed the representation from more well-known wine-producing areas.

Even Virginia had a pretty good showing with about half a dozen wineries on-site. The Washington Wine Academy was also on-hand pouring local wine – and had good crowds throughout the day. I was impressed that there was such a big showing by Virginia wineries, given that the DC festival was held on the same weekend as the Virginia Wine Showcase.

There was a large turnout, making it difficult to get samples and tastings from some vendors, but that isn’t unusual. Regardless, there was enough to do and see that it was not a major issue except with a few vendors. And seriously, if you are giving out samples of foie gras, there is going to be a wait. Like most festivals of its ilk, there were cooking demonstrations with celebrity chefs, food and wine vendors and myriad other businesses attracted by the demographics of the attendees.

South Africa had the largest presence of any wine region that I saw, with Spain being a close second. I am glad they did, as I am not all that familiar with South African wines and was glad to have the opportunity to try a number of styles of South African wine. Aside from more traditional varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa offered attendees samples of alternative varietals that they do very well: Pinotage (red) and Chenin Blanc (white). I tried both, which were both quite good. The Pinotage had a deep red color with a light-to-medium body and a lot of smoke, oak and blackberries on the nose and finish. The Chenin Blanc had a lot of vanilla and banana throughout.

Spain also had a big presence, too, but there was too much of a cluster for me to spend too much time tasting their wines.

The Finger Lakes also had a large turnout. From the wines on hand, as well as the marketing material about the region, it’s easy to figure out what the Finger Lakes does well: Riesling. Every winery was pouring at least two different styles of Riesling, and the literature quoted the rave reviews that Finger Lakes Riesling has received. Riesling is being embraced as the grape of the region. Sweet, dry, and semi-dry styles were all well-represented at the festival. Many of them were done very well. If you’re not a fan of Riesling, there were several Finger Lakes Pinot Noirs and Gewürztraminers available too - but they were supporting characters to Riesling. Chambourcin also has a lot of potential in the Finger Lakes. I have tried several very good ones, and have been impressed with the versatility and complexity of Finger Lakes Chambourcin.

There was, in fact, so much talk and literature about Finger Lakes Riesling that the region could run the risk of becoming a one-trick pony. The region should embrace what it does well, but it does wines other than Riesling well, too. I wrote about some producers making fantastic reds a while back, but the marketing collateral that the region is using so emphasized Riesling that it might make it difficult for other wines to get the respect and attention that they deserve. Still, Oregon's wine industry certainly hasn't suffered from emphasizing its Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

It is interesting to contrast the strategy of the Finger Lakes to that of Virginia. They are both emerging wine regions that are gaining more and more recognition within the industry. But where the Finger Lakes is leaning on one grape varietal hard, the Virginia wine industry emphasizes its history, diversity and innovation. Even though Cabernet Franc and Viognier grow well in Virginia, neither varietal has been highlighted to the extent that Riesling has been by the Finger Lakes industry. It will be interesting to see which strategy is more successful in the long run. I hope that both regions continue to develop and produce great wine that is reflective of their respective climate and geography.

Freedom, Democracy and Wine. Thomas Jefferson would be Proud

With the Virginia Wine Showcase having come and gone and the Virginia Wine Expo fast approaching, what better time is there to take stock of where the Virginia wine industry is and where it is headed? My own humble answer is “none.” On display at the Showcase, along with wines from close to 40 Virginia wineries, was an unwavering confidence about the health and the direction of the industry. Not that there aren’t problems that need to be addressed. The fact that Virginia cannot ship its wine to nearby Maryland and Pennsylvania is criminal - and a constant concern to many people in the industry. But given the quality of wine, the growing reputation of the state, and the increasing number of wine producers, the overwhelming feeling is that the Virginia wine industry is on the cusp of gaining the reputation so many within the business feels it deserves. The wine is where it needs to be, it is now a matter of developing better reputation.

I was shocked by how often I heard this sentiment - it was practically universal. Admittingly, most people working for Virginia wineries - i.e. those who were pouring and selling wine at the Virginia Wine Showcase – have a somewhat biased and rosy view of where the industry is headed. Still, I got the same sense of enthusiasm from attendees, volunteers and other vendors. Though I tend to pooh-pooh those who set up shop to sell gutter cleaning services, paintings of cats made out of seashells, window installers, and knife companies at wine events, they do offer a perspective that is different than the wineries and attendees that attend. They too seemed excited about Virginia wine and the industry as a whole.

From the wine I was able to sample, Virginia wine is also diversifying. Wineries are making wine from well-known and less well-known varietals, in sweet, dry and semi-sweet styles. There are reds, whites, rosés and even fruit-flavored wines. The different styles all speak to the level of talent and commitment people have to making Virginia wine some of the best in the country. It is also, many winemakers told me, one of the great advantages of Virginia’s wine industry – there is more freedom to experiment with different styles of wines, different grape varietals and different blends. This is all resulting in an increasingly complex, interesting and enjoyable portfolio of wines coming out of the state.

I got to try some of my old favorites as well as some new ones at the Showcase. The standout of the new ones I tried was Hume Vineyards. Hume’s mission is to create Old World-style wines from grape varietals that grow well in Virginia. One of my favorites was their Chambourcin. While it is not a traditional Bordeaux varietal, Hume makes one that is deep red, fruity, spicy and medium-to-full bodied. It is an elegant wine and shows the potential that Chambourcin has in the state. As a native of the Loire Valley, Stephane – Hume’s owner and winemaker – told me that they are going to unveil a dry rosé wine this spring, which I am also very eager to try.

Virginia is attracting new wineries because it’s hit a sweet spot where winemakers and prospective winery owners have heard about Virginia wines, have been impressed by what they have tried, and see tremendous promise in what they can accomplish by opening their doors in the state. And while the market does drive some decisions – both Chardonnay and Merlot are musts – there is more freedom to experiment. Chambourcin is a great example, and Hume shows that it is paying off extremely well. With so much potential in the state, a friendly climate for new wineries to open, and a growing reputation, winemakers have the ability to make the kinds of wines they want to, find out what grows really well in Virginia - Cabernet Franc and Viognier are the early leaders - and grow their businesses along with the industry as a whole.

Stephane chose to open his winery in Virginia rather to return to France because he saw “tremendous promise” in Virginia and did not want to be as restricted as he would have been in France. His story is not unique. Many people I spoke with chose Virginia because of its promise and freedom to experiment. We are lucky that Hume’s owner made that choice. It would’ve been a real shame if he opened his winery in France where he would be unable to make his impressive Chambourcin.

Good Food, Good WIne, Good Cause

This is one of those weekends where I love that I care passionately enough about wine to write about it. With all the great events going on, it is hard to make time for them on, but I soldier on…

At the Virginia Wine Showcase I got to talk to people from wineries all over the state about the overall health of the industry and their own respective wineries. The short version is that Cabernet Franc and Viogner grow really, really well in Virginia; everyone is extremely optimistic about the direction the industry is headed; and if it weren’t for restrictive, outdated and downright asinine wine laws is nearby states – specifically Maryland and Pennsylvania – Virginia wines would already be reaching a much wider audience and gaining converts.

More on the Virginia Wine Showcase and the Virginia wine industry will be coming in the days to follow. But as the weekend is halfway over, it is important to look at the other wine-related events that are happening in DC. Specifically the 12^th Annual Washington, DC International Wine and Food Festival. If the Virginia Wine Showcase focuses on all things local, the Washington Wine and Food focuses on all things global. There are wines from Spain, Italy and France represented, as well as an impressive showing from the Finger Lakes.

After a weekend of wining and dining, it’s important to mix it up a bit… Like wining and dining for a good cause. And you have the opportunity to do just that on Sunday. Why not spend brunch trying wine and gourmet food by one of DC’s preeminent chefs at his namesake restaurant? With all the proceeds going to the DC Central Kitchen? That sounds like it just might be crazy enough to work! And that is what the organizers of the 12^th Annual DC Wine and Food Festival are hoping for. Tickets are still available on the Wine and Food Festival Website.

Starting at 11.00 am tomorrow, Chef Ris Lacoste will prepare an exclusive brunch at his namesake restaurant, pair it with wine and champagne and give all the proceeds to DC Central Kitchen. It couldn’t be a more worthy cause, and all it takes is to buy a ticket and continue doing what you have been doing all weekend. It’s the very definition of win-win.

Getting the Word Out on Virginia Wine

It's hard to believe, but there was a time before the Internet. In those cold, dark days, people had to learn about wine through their local wine shop, newsletters, and local wine festivals. Basically people had to interact with other people. Luckily, those days are long gone. The problem is you still can’t taste wine online. Hopefully this will change one day in the future - I’m looking at you, Google Labs - but until then, there are plenty of resources available.

Just this week Virginia Wine Trips launched. It is a blog that not only focuses on Virginia wine but also outlines specific itineraries you can follow in different parts of the state. As the blog grows, more itineraries will become available. Virginia Wine Trips is a welcome addition to the Virginia wine blog community. Virginia Wine Trips is from the same team that is responsible for the always-enjoyable Swirl, Sip, Snark blog.

Other Virginia wine blogs worth reading are My Vine Spot, Drink What You Like, Virginia Wine Time and Virginia Wine in My Pocket. These blogs and the myriad others vary in depth, breadth and scope. Each offers a different take on the wines and wineries throughout Virginia. There are many others, but these are a good place to start.

If you want to get out from behind your computer screen to actually taste, rather than just read about, Virginia wine you can still do that, too. There is no better place to start than the Virginia Wine Showcase which is happening this weekend. With close to 40 Virginia wineries, chefs giving cooking demonstrations, wine seminars, a blind wine tasting – “Virginia vs. The World” - and even speed dating, this year’s Wine Showcase is the perfect opportunity to spend a weekend familiarizing yourself with all that Virginia wine has to offer.

Last year’s Virginia Wine Showcase was hampered by Snowmageddon. This year promises to be different. The weather looks like it will cooperate, and I am looking forward to actually attending the Showcase this year. Tickets, a schedule of events and a layout of the Showcase are all available on the website.

As the Virginia wine industry continues to grow, so too will your options for learning about all Virginia wine has to offer. There is still, though, no substitute for visiting a winery and trying their wine firsthand.

Take a Walk on the Ingleside

When a story begins with the clichéd opening: “it was a dark and stormy night,” you know that something unsavory is going to happen. Almost as clichéd is that opening’s bastard son: “it was a cold and rainy day.” Luckily, when Caitlin and I visited Ingleside Vineyards recently on a cold and rainy day, there was nothing unsavory about it. In fact, just the opposite was true. We had a great time tasting and touring one of Northern Virginia’s oldest and most well-established wineries.

Ingleside has been producing wine since 1980, and that history and experience is evident in all aspects of the winery’s operations. The smooth functioning of the tasting room, the large gift shop selling any number of Virginia and wine-centric tchotchkes, the impressive calendar of events and, of course, the wine itself all serve as a testament to the value of experience. I was pleasantly surprised by some of their wines and downright impressed with a few of them – particularly the Petit Verdot - which we couldn’t help but buy a bottle of.

One of the things that really impressed about Ingleside is that it both produces an impressive array of wines and also grows an impressive array of their own grapes. Included in the grapes that they grow are Sangiovese, Charbono and Syrah - varietals that aren’t normally associated with Virginia wine. Many wineries grow the grapes that go into their wines, yet I don't know of another winery in the state that is growing such a wide variety of grapes and producing such a wide range of drinkable wines.

If you visit the winery I would recommend taking the tour. It is short and informative and you get to visit their barrel room, which is available to rent for private parties. It is an impressive, yet intimate room – though I thought only college dorm rooms decorated with year-round Christmas lights.

As for the wines themselves, they offer several different tastings: Chesapeake, Premium and Inclusive. We chose the Premium tasting that included their Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and a dessert wine. I really liked both the Chardonnay and the Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Sauvignon just couldn’t compete with its Napa Valley relatives in my opinion.

And then there was the Petit Verdot. With a deep, dark, purple color and smelling of licorice, coffee, chocolate and a hint of fresh tar – trust me on this one - you know almost immediately that this wine is going to kick you in the teeth when you drink it. And it does, but in a good way. The wine is very full-bodied with a nice dry but not overly dry finish.

What you smell is what you get. Chocolate, licorice, coffee, and yes, a bit of fresh tar, make this big, well-structured and balanced wine one that lingers long after you have taken a sip.

On a related note, the Virginia Wine Showcase is being held this weekend. Ingleside will be one of the 40 or so wineries that will be there. The Virginia Wine Showcase is one of the best opportunities to try myriad different wines from around the state in one location.

I hope to see you there. And to try the Ingleside Petit Verdot again.

Little Cabin in the Woods. Serving Sweet Wines

Virginia's wine industry is still young and growing. It has not had much opportunity for family-owned wineries to pass from one generation to the next like in some more well-established wine-producing regions. I have heard some winery owners say that their children have an interest in the business. Others have told me that their son or daughter is going to college so that they may take over the winery one day. Yet with the reborn Virginia wine industry still in its first generation, there hasn’t been much of a chance for wineries to be bequeathed from parents to children.

Hidden Brook is not a generational winery, either, but it is pretty close. Owned by a husband and wife team, the couple bought land adjacent to the husband’s parents. The parents own Lost Creek Vineyards and the two properties are separated by rows of vines each uses to make their own wine. If nothing else, Hidden Brook’s story shows that Virginia winemaking is taking root and influencing others’ decision to have a go of making wine in the state. I like the story, and I was eager to visit the winery and try the wines.

Apparently I was the only one. When Caitlin and I visited Hidden Brook we were literally their only customers, which is too bad because the winery itself is a pleasant setting: a log cabin on a wooded lot with a big fireplace. Not a bad place to spend a winter afternoon. Since we were the only people there, we had the attention of one of the owners all to ourselves. She told us a little more about the brief history of the winery, and walked us through a tasting.

The wines all tended to be a bit sweet for my taste. The owner mentioned on several occasions that they make their wines in a sweeter style because that is what their customers want. I wasn’t entirely sure if she was being defensive or apologetic about Hidden Brook’s wines, but she seemed to be of the opinion that Hidden Brook’s wines were not living up to their potential, and I would have to agree. While it never makes sense to alienate your most loyal customers, it also doesn’t make sense to make wines in a style that you don’t personally like. What’s the point of putting that much time, effort, energy, money and toil into something that you will think is, at best, decent?

Still, of the wines that we tried, Hidden Brook’s Chambourcin was the standout. The Chambourcin had a lighter body than many I have tried, but it had a nice flavor profile that combined vanilla, tobacco and raspberries with spice, pine and cloves. The owner, by way of explanation, told us that it was a very young wine and could stand to be aged a bit longer. I could see how a few more years would allow the wine to grow and develop, and, as such, Caitlin and I walked away with a bottle. I am interested to revisit the wine in a couple of years and see if it actually has matured the way I think it will.

While not a great wine, Hidden Brook’s Chambourcin was the best of the ones that we tried. It was by far the least sweet and I can see some potential in it. With a great story, great setting and friendly owners, the only thing missing from Hidden Brook is better wines. And more customers.

Holidays Call for Good Wine

Merry Christmas to all Virginia wine lovers, Virginia winemakers and anyone and everyone else who may read this.

Whether or not you are looking to serve good wine during the holidays because it is a special occasion, or if you are entertaining relatives and in-laws and need a bit more bang for your buck, there are thousands of choices for both approaches. And Virginia wineries can help in both ways.

For quality Virginia wines to serve for the holidays, I am a fan of Fabbioli Cellars' Cabernet Franc and Paradise Springs' Chardonnay. Both are great wines that will please your wine-loving and wine-phobic guests alike.

Fabbioli Cellars' Cabernet Franc is a nice, medium-bodied red. It has a touch of sweetness reminiscent of raspberries and dark chocolate. It is not, however, a sweet wine. Rather, the sweetness gives way to an interesting complexity of pepper and nutmeg on the finish. The sweetness and spiciness work well together to give this medium-bodied wine a very well-balanced and enjoyable flavor.

I have sung the praises of Virginia Cabernet Franc in the past, and Fabbioli's is one of the best you can find. Plus, at $19, the wine is a great value for the quality.

As for white wine, if you haven't tried Paradise Springs' Chardonnay yet, you should definitely make it a priority. Not only did it win the 2010 Governor's Cup for white wine, but it is a robust, well-made white that would be a great addition to any meal regardless of official accolades. With crisp pear, green apple and brie flavors throughout, this wine would be a perfect accompaniment for appetizers or to serve at a holiday party.

Although I have been more impressed with Virginia Viogniers in the past, Paradise Springs' Chardonnay has convinced me that Chardonnay can do well in the state as well. At $29 the Chardonnay is a bit pricey, especially when compared to other chardonnays at the same price-point, but it is worth trying and sharing with guests.

This past year has been a good one for the Virginia wine industry, despite the sluggish economy. There are many options out there for very good Virginia wines that you can serve during the holidays.

Whatever you drink and serve this holiday season, have a safe and merry Christmas.

8 Chains North: A New VA Winery that's not yet a 10

If you have ever asked yourself what wine and old refrigerators have in common, your answer can now be 8 Chains North winery in Waterford, VA. What struck me first about one of Virginia’s newer wineries is that it is decorated in two very distinct styles: one could be called “Cost Plus World Market Floor Model” and the other design theme is old refrigerators. The first one I can understand. Who hasn’t walked into a Cost Plus and thought: “I like all of these styles of furniture. I’ll take them all and decorating will be a cinch!” Putting all of them in the same space, unless it is in the store, feels a bit confused and jumbled.

8 Chains North in general is very much like its tasting room. There are a lot of good ideas but the overall execution is a little confused without any real purpose. And seriously, why all the old refrigerators?

I give a tremendous amount of credit to anyone who opens up a winery. The amount of time, effort and money needed to start a winery from the ground up is daunting. Yet the more wineries that open, the more good wine will be produced which will add to Virginia’s reputation as a wine-producing state in general. Like the tasting room, I felt that the wines being produced at 8 Chains North could use a little work.

Of the wines that Caitlin and I tried, their Furnace Mountain Red was the most enjoyable. With a pleasant aroma of blackberries and a hint of vanilla, I was expecting a bigger, heartier red than the light, soft one that it turned out to be. The body is on the thin side and the pleasant aromas give way to oaky hints that lead to an unexpected sourness on the finish. Like the winery itself, I was expecting one thing and got something totally different when I tired this blend.

The other wine worth mentioning is their LoCo Vino white. Like their Furnace Mountain Red, LoCo Vino is a blend, using traminette and vidal blanc grapes. As Virginia whites go, I could see drinking this one again. It had more complexity that I was anticipating, with a floral aroma that opened up nicely into a pleasant, albeit thin, body that accentuated its citrus and grassy flavors. This would be a good wine to take to a BBQ, or a picnic.

With so many things wine, experiences can change from sip to sip or from trip to trip. 8 Chains North does have a great space that could easily be modified to become a more welcoming tasting room. The views are beautiful, and I could tell that the person working the wine bar was very enthusiastic and excited about the winery. Also like wine, with a bit more aging and maturity, I know that 8 Chains North will reach its full potential.

Check Out the Washington Wine Academy!

For anyone not familiar with the Washington Wine Academy, I would highly encourage you to check them out. Celebrating 10 years in business this year, WWA offers a host of different wine tasting and education events around the region. Since Washington, DC is among the largest wine markets in the country, WWA provides an invaluable service to a thirsty region.

I first learned about WWA through one of the Arlington Cinema and Drafthouse’s Wine Nights some years back where WWA had a wine tasting set up and the Drafthouse had discounts on glasses, carafes, bottles and flagons of wine…Maybe not flagons, but there were certainly some good wine deals. WWA also sponsors wine tours, and has a prensence at many different food and wine events around the area.

I didn’t think much else about WWA until Caitlin recently got us tickets to one of their hour-long wine education courses. The class provided a great overview of enjoying wine for people of all levels - from novices to those who scrutinize the finest of wine lists to regional wine bloggers. There was enough information for everyone to make the course worthwhile and informative, while also making wine much more approachable. The instructor, Tom Finigan of Washburn Wine, did a great job of explaining the characteristics of wine, dispelled some of the common myths and misconceptions about wine, and most importantly, walked us through what to look for during a wine tasting.

The tasting included a Virginia wine: Barboursville Vineyards Octagon IX Edition 2006. The 2006 Octagon is a velvety red wine that has hints of blackberries, currants and oakiness on the nose. Based on the smell alone, it would be easy to think that Barboursville’s Octagon is simply trying to be a Virginia zinfandel, yet when you taste it, and sense the dryness and high tannins with a spicy, thick, fruity finish, then you know that it is not a zin knockoff at all but something else all its own. If you want to splurge on a Virginia red, you could do worse than this one at $40 a bottle.

Now that DC is in the full throes of summer’s heat and humidity, it is a great opportunity to familiarize yourself with the Washington Wine Academy. It is nearby, well-run and air-conditioned. They do a lot throughout the region and certainly are worth the support of the community.

Notaviva – Music to Virginia Wine

We recently visited Notaviva Vineyards. This is one of those wineries that, for me, is more about atmosphere and ambiance than it is about the wines. If you are in the mood to spend some time listening to good music in beautiful surroundings drinking wine, this is as good a place as any. Notaviva prides itself on its ability to pair wines with music, and the live music that they have on weekends does a nice job of creating the right atmosphere. I like their dedication to adding an aural element to wine. Wine is such a sensual experience – from looking at the glass to smelling it to get a sense of what lays ahead to tasting it to savoring it, wine rewards those who use their senses. Notaviva adds music to this dynamic. I am glad that they have done so. Their staff is extremely friendly and helpful, which also helps with the overall experience. Music, wine and a friendly staff make Notaviva a great place to spend

an afternoon.

As for their wines, the best of their offerings is their 2008 Vincero Viognier. Not to sound too much like a broken record on this blog, but Viognier really likes growing in Virginia, and Virginia wineries can do amazing things with this grape. Notaviva’s Viognier is aged in stainless steel casks, which gives it a light, crisp flavor that accentuates this wine’s mellow pear and kiwi undertones. Try it with grilled shrimp seasoned with Old Bay, or even sautéed rockfish cooked in sage butter. The texture and flavor of either dish will go well with this Viognier’s mellow, sweet flavor.

Notaviva’s 2008 "Celtico" Chambourcin is an interesting, if not entirely impressive red. It has plenty of tannins, with a smokiness that makes this wine a good fit for foods cooked on a grill – from burgers to steak. Basically, this is a red that should go with meat. Grilled meat. Preferably with a spicy dry rub or sauce. Open up a bottle with dinner and finish it off with some dark chocolate for dessert and you will have a well-paired meal. I say it is slightly unimpressive, though, for the fact that for as much smokiness and tannins as it has, that is basically it. There are some whiffs of raspberries, but not many. And with a smokiness that permeates everything from first smell to last sip, there doesn’t seem to be much room for any other flavors to distinguish themselves.

What Notaviva tries to do, and does well, is add a musical dimension to wine. From the names of their wines, to the diverse varieties of music played in their tasting room, to the owner’s own musical backgrounds and the musical paraphernalia that adorns the walls of their winery, it is obvious that Notaviva was opened so that the owners could pursue their two passions: music and wine. They have created a great atmosphere and make some decent wines in the process.

Springing Back into Virginia’s Wineries

Recently, I have been asking a lot of people about Virginia wines and as I mentioned in a previous post, the reputation of Virginia wines continues to grow. The word has made it out to some California wineries that Virginia is not just making alcohol-laden grape juice anymore. And as this article points out, California is slowly but surely accepting its Eastern cousin as a producer of quality wine. Even the staid, old school publications like Travel and Leisure have sung the praises of Virginia wine country.

But enough of lead-in on how great Virginia wines are. I wouldn’t have started this blog unless I thought Virginia produced some good, albeit underrated, wines. And, of course, Virginia wineries are easy to get to from Washington, DC. Thanks to Caitlin organizing a wine tour for a group she plans a lot of events for, we got to three Virginia wineries recently, got to taste many different offerings and generally had a great time. Each winery will have its own entry – as there were some complaints that the last post on the Charleston Wine and Food Festival was way too long. I agree, so here is an overview, followed by individual posts in the coming days.

We visited three different wineries with a group of about 50 people. Starting with Paradise Springs Winery in Fairfax, VA. I have written about them in the past, and am glad that the winery continues to do well and play host to many people on the weekends. In fact, they are doing so well that they have to turn away some groups. It is well worth it to call in advance and pay them a visit. The land, the history and the wines make the quick trip to this winery well worth it.

Next on our itinerary was Notaviva Vineyards. Their motto is: “Wine Paired with Music. Pour. Listen. Believe.” My PR antennae are not quite sure what it is we are being asked to believe in…wine?...music?...both? I love how they emphasize pairing music with wine. Wine is supposed to be a sensory experience that incorporates sight, smell and taste. Why not add sound to enhance the experience? It helps that the staff is one of the friendliest and enthusiastic around. I got the sense that everybody working at Notaviva really loves what they do, where they do it, and how they do it. Being surrounded all day with friendly people, good wine and great music is not the worst job in the world. It helps that all this wine and music and friendliness is offered up to visitors in a space that was featured on HGTV’s Dream Home series.

The final winery that we visited was Hiddencroft Vineyards. Hiddencroft prides itself on being the “northernmost winery in Virginia.” This was my first time to this winery, and I enjoyed it. The owner was very knowledgeable, and you could tell that she took great pride in the wine that she produced – and got excited telling others about it. The grounds and the winery itself are beautiful. The inside could use a bit of help aesthetically. The best way to describe the inside is “winery dorm room chic.” There was plenty going on, but no real rhyme or reason to it. I like to think it is because they put more of their effort and energy into the wines that they make rather than their surroundings, and that could be the taste after trying some of their wines.

Click here to View Larger Map, and see where the three wineries are located!

But you will have to check back to find out more about Hiddencroft’s wines, as well as those from Notaviva and Paradise Springs. Hopefully this overview will give you some ideas on what to do next time you have a free weekend and the desire to get out to some of the region’s wineries.

Recap: Charleston Wine and Food Festival

I was pleasantly proven wrong, both about my perceptions of the Deep South and of Southern food, especially grits, when Caitlin and I traveled down to Charleston for their annual Wine and Food Festival. Both are worthy of praise, but the festival’s offerings were the main reason for our trip. Neither of the Carolinas have become great wine-growing states yet. North Carolina has a few notable vineyards, like Biltmore Estates, which was at the festival, but I still haven’t had too many Carolina wines that have impressed me.

Although Biltmore had a presence at the festival, this was not just a regional festival in terms of the wines that were available. There were plenty of importers, wineries and regional distributors on hand pouring samples. Many wineries from California made the trip across the country to participate…had I known that there would have been so many good Lodi zins, I probably would have paced myself on the shrimp and grits front…But I didn’t, and I don’t really have any regrets about it.

There were many great wine options to choose from – including some fantastic wines that are usually out of my price range. I can’t tell you how many times I went back to get another sample of the thick, jammy, fruity deliciousness that is Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon. Sonoma-Cutrer’s light, crisp, sweet, pear-heavy chardonnay was a great white wine standout. Same for Kim Crawford’s slate and citrus-laden, almost tart Sauvignon Blanc. Mr. Crawford is one the best winemakers in New Zealand, and I was happy to suggest that everybody I was with try some of his wines, especially the Sauvignon Blanc, which has done so much to put New Zealand wines on the map.

What I did notice was surprisingly absent from the Charleston Wine and Food Festival were wines from Virginia. I tend to look for Virginia wines whenever I am at such an event. I noticed that they were glaringly absent from the moment we entered the tent…Actually, I noticed it after we each were treated to a breakfast brownie as our first food sample of the day. I thought that Virginia wines would want to take full advantage of a major food and wine festival to expand its regional reputation, but I didn’t see any wines, wine organizations, or wineries from the Old Dominion.

While wines from Virginia were themselves noticeably and unfortunately absent, I was happy to talk to some people from other wineries about Virginia wines and was shocked at how strong the state’s wine reputation is becoming. While Caitlin, her brother and his wife were getting their sample of grilled antelope – I am still upset I never got any – I spoke to Andy Wilcox from Lambert Bridge Winery in Dry Creek Valley, CA. After trying Lambert Bridge’s wines, where the peppery zinfandel which had a nice kick, plenty of tannins and a rich, molasses-like body was the standout (I do use “molasses-like” primarily because I was in the South) I asked Andy about Virginia wines. Andy was a good sport when I asked him to say, again, what he thought about Virginia wines when my iPhone camera didn’t record his statement the first time. The key takeaway is that Virginia wines are good, are getting better, and people in California are taking notice.

So often, I compare wines from Virginia and New York – where Caitlin and I do most of our tastings – to wines from more well-known wine-growing regions in California and overseas. Because of that comparison, I tend to find a lot of the wine we try flat and one-dimensional, especially reds (save for some really good Cab Francs from Virginia). So I say with no disrespect or ill will to Lambert Bridge that the Viognier I tried from their winery was less impressive than some of the Viogniers from Virginia I have discussed in the past. Virginia just seems to do Viogniers very well, and the state’s wine reputation continues to grow. Now if only Virginia wines would show up at festivals, such as Charleston’s Wine and Food Festival, even more people could learn about wines from Virginia.

Expanding DC’s Wine Country to Include Fairfax

There was considerable attention paid to the controversy surrounding Paradise Springs Winery last year. I wrote about it a couple times, here and here. After months of delays and thousands of dollars in legal fees, Paradise Springs Winery was finally able to open its doors to the general public earlier this month – becoming the first winery to call Fairfax County home.

Caitlin and I visited Virginia’s newest winery during their soft opening several weeks ago. We were both impressed with the beautiful winery grounds that make you forget you are in Fairfax, the restored farmhouse that has been converted into tasting rooms on two levels (avoid the lower one if you are on the tall side), and the barn that features live music and a third tasting station.

As for the wines themselves, Caitlin and I did a full tasting in the farmhouse and each had a full glass in the barn. I was a fan of their 2008 Viognier and their 2008 Cabernet Franc. Considering that these are the white and red varietals, respectively, that work best in Virginia, it is no surprise that these are the two strongest offerings from Paradise Springs. The former was citrusy, mineraly and had a slight hint of slate to it while the Cabernet Franc was a darker, robust and rather jammy wine for a cab franc. With both wines falling within the mid-$20 range as a price-point, you are paying more than the wine is worth. Still, both are decent drinking wines. And if you open either of the bottles on site, the scenery, hospitality, live music and atmosphere will more than make up for it. Light fare such as bread, cheese and salami are available on site.

Overall, I was impressed with what I found at Paradise Springs. I was, of course, hoping that they would win their legal battle and be allowed to open. On another level, I was skeptical that a winery would be able to thrive in the suburban cluster that is Fairfax County, albeit a part of the county that still retains a rural, rustic feel to it. The level of support the winery is receiving from the community I witnessed during our visit was impressive. Paradise Springs was packed, and we were told it had been bustling all day. The wine itself, while a little overpriced, is a welcome - and much belated - addition to DC’s wine country.

Given that our visit was during one of their opening weekends, I was not surprised by the festive atmosphere, and am eager to visit again under more normal circumstances. My congratulations go out to Paradise Springs for their successful opening, and for paving the way for wineries to open in Fairfax County.

White Wines Reviewed in 2009

With the official wrap-up of some of the blog posts and stories I covered in 2009, it is time shift attention to the more important list from 2009: the wines that were reviewed.

Below is a list of all the white wines that I mentioned on this blog in 2009. Hopefully you will be able to try – and enjoy – some of these and possibly even visit some of the wineries.

• Rappahannock Cellars Chardonnay: Chardonnay does not grow well in Virginia, though [Rappahannock Cellars does] devote some acreage to it. From what I tried, I would agree that it is not the best white that they make.
• Rappahannock Cellars 2008 Noblesse Viognier: Was quite good, with a nice, dry blend of citrus and mineral flavors throughout the body and a rich, golden color.
• Tarara 2007 Viognier: A very crisp wine with a touch of acidity on the palette that gives the wine an almost, but not quite, sparkling quality. The nose has some fruit to it, but also a bit of a chalky hue. In case you’re wondering, that is actually a good thing for this wine. Don’t ask how I got “chalky.” I did, and it’s not a bad thing.
• Swedish Hill 2007 Dry Riesling: A light, citrusy Riesling that had a nice body and decent finish. Being a Riesling, even though this was their “dry” variety, there was still a tinge of sweet syrupiness to it, which, given the characteristics of the Riesling grape should be expected.
• Swedish Hill 2006 Reserve Chardonnay: Unlike many chardonnays I have had from the Finger Lakes, this one was not too oaky. It actually tasted like wine instead of scotch. It did have some light oak undertones, as well as the buttery finish that one expects with a chardonnay. This particular wine also had some hints of pear and apple in it.
• Swedish Hill Blue Waters Riesling: A sweet, but not too sweet, taste throughout with a fruity, lingering aftertaste of peaches.
• Dill’s Run Winery Pinot Grigio: It was a little too apricoty for my taste, and a bit more buttery than I would have liked. I tend to like the crisper, whites with a fresher taste.

So there you have the white wines that I reviewed in 2009. Check back soon to see the list of reds that I reviewed in 2009.

RappAdventure

Although it is several weeks gone now, I am finally getting around to writing about Rappahannock Cellars, who was the gracious host for the inaugural TechAdventureDC event. Followers of Twitter, Flickr, Facebook and other social media platforms have probably already seen and read all that they need to about the event from the social media and techie perspective. I will add my three sentence write-up of the event from that point of view, then move onto the wine: It was a great way to continue online conversations offline and actually meet people face-to-face. I enjoyed receiving all of the positive feedback about the blog, and was surprised by how many people actually read it! It was a great way to get out of the city for a day, spending time in a beautiful setting, eating great food, listening to music in a barn and drinking some very good Virginia wines.

The winery was started by California transplants who moved to Virginia over a dozen years ago to start a family winery in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. As a member winery of the Blue Ridge Wine Way, and a winery that produces over 8,000 cases of wine a year, Rappahannock Cellars is now one of the bigger wineries in Virginia. Despite the many challenges that growing wine in Virginia has compared to California, the owners, winemakers, vine-growers, along with everyone else involved in the production of their wines seems to welcome the challenge. The ultimate payoff, of course, is what ultimatly flows out of the bottle.

During the tour of the vineyard, we were told that chardonnay does not grow well in Virginia, though they devote some acreage to it. From what I tried, I would agree that it is not the best white that they make, but their 2008 Noblesse Viognier was quite good, with a nice, dry blend of citrus and mineral flavors throughout the body and a rich, golden color.

Like chardonnay, Virginia is not known for its cabernet sauvignon. Rappahannock makes a drinkable one, however. It is not, by any means the thick, full-bodied wine that California has become famous for producing, but it serves as a good table wine that is more that able to accompany red meats, cheese and even pasta dishes. A better red that they produce is their 2007 Cabernet Franc. Perhaps cabernet franc just grows better in Virginia, or maybe I just know what to expect with Virginia cabernet franc, but I enjoyed it more likely because the cab franc had the subtle taste of peanut butter and jelly in the finish.

I found their dessert wines way too sweet and thick, with jumbled, muddled tastes that didn’t really offer anything too distinctive. The best way I could describe their 2007 Red Dessert Wine is like diluting a jar of jam with water and letting it ferment. Not my favorite, but many people on the trip enjoyed it - further reinforcing the fact that every palate is different, everybody likes and looks for different things in wine, and all tasting recommendations should be viewed as guideposts more than anything else.

Overall, a big thank you goes out to the organizers of TechAdventureDC and to Rappahannock Cellars. I would strongly encourage you to take a trip out to the winery, spend a day tasting what they have to offer and exploring their grounds. You will leave happy, with some very good bottles of Virgina wine.